Vesele Velikonoce!

 

 This article on Expats.cz will tell you where all of the gorgeous Easter markets are located. 

 Hop on over! 

(photo Expats.CZ)

BOO!

• “Last night you were unhinged. You were like some desperate, howling demon. You frightened me. Do it again.” — Morticia, “The Addams Family”

Autumn is upon us, and what does Autumn bring besides cool & crisp days, and leaves changing color into glorious shades of gold and burnt orange?  Yes, yes.... shorter days (I can't really find the plus in that), colder temps (two words "sweater weather", plus you can finally break out your amazing boots), and my all-time favorite....

HALLOWEEN

Let go of insecurities and inhibitions and for one day, one night, one party - put on that costume you know you secretly yearn to and have a damn good time!

Decorate your house, your yard, dress-up your dog  - let your inner superhero fly

Unleash your inner Billy Idol

Your inner bullfighter

Or just have fun at a pumpkin patch....

Just don't forget to decorate your home

Lucky for you, there are lots of places around Prague to partake in the festivities....

How to celebrate autumn in Czechia: Pumpkin patches, color walks, and corn mazes - Prague, Czech Republic: An overview of Czech traditions as well as tips for autumn activities popular with the international crowd.

And if you're lucky, maybe you'll encounter a Vampire or two.

Let the whippings commence

The moment we've all been waiting for...

.Get your Pomlázka out, boys!  There aren't many days in the year when ladies want a whipping gentle whipping.

So get out your Pomlázka and make your way through the village, neighborhood, apartment building, what have you.  But don't forget to start with the females in your home.  Some may not like it, some may like it more than they will admit, but these whippings gentle whippings chase away illnesses and bad spirits, and bring health and youth for the rest of the year.  Ladies, you know we are forever chasing that damn fountain of youth, so take it on the legs and be glad you didn't get doused with water (that's an alternative...).

Boys, recite “Hody, hody doprovody, dejte vejce malovaný, nedáte-li malovaný, dejte aspoň bílý, slepička vám snese jiný…”

Essentially, you're asking for eggs, an egg will do.  Preferably painted, but white will do just as well.

But these days who wants eggs?  These days you get money, or most likely shots of Slivovice (plum brandy) instead.  YES!

So all in all, when you break it down, Easter Monday is a day when 

ladies take a whipping gentle whipping to stay young & beautiful and the men get drunk.

Na zdraví!

Eggs & Whips

Happy Easter, Sunday!

If you haven't done so yet, dye those eggs and prepare your pomlázka for tomorrow's whippings gentle whippings.

In the Czech culture, today is a day to prepare for Easter Monday festivities, for Easter Monday trumps Easter Sunday.  

So I tried to be all Martha Stewart last night and dyed my eggs in a manner I have never even seen before, and it was SO. MUCH. *$@#*&%. FUN.  Not only that, it was super fast (cause who wants to be dying eggs for hours) and the color took way better than dipping an egg in a cup of dye and staring at it for minutes.  I highly suggest it to all of you who have yet to dye those eggs.  I may find myself dying eggs at random times throughout the year now simply because I want to shove my hands in shaving cream and slosh them around. Don't judge.

And don't even think about not dying eggs...or you will die.

Here is the video I somehow stumbled upon...

So good.  So, so good. 

Here are my eggs.  I recommend you watch the entire video, unlike myself.  I didn't leave the dyed shaving cream on my eggs for a while, just wiped them off straight away.  What can I say, I'm like a 6-year-old on Christmas morning tearing through presents.  Bur nevertheless, I like the pastel-color look they got.

And I won't die.

My next attempt, this guy:

I did't bake a Mazanec (gasp!), so am hoping that if I bake a Beránek, that all will be forgiven by the Superstitious Gods.

Here's a recipe in case you want to try your hand at Beranek

Men & boys... get your pomlázka ready for tomorrow!  Traditionally made from braided pussy willow, but if said pussy willow is not available, be creative.  And, go!

Easter Markets in Prague

If in Prague, don't forget to stroll through the Easter markets.

April 1st - 23rd, the markets are open daily in Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square.  Lots of Easter traditional crafts for purchase, as well as food and drink.

One VERY important item to purchase while at the market is a pomlázka (braided whip with a ribbon tied to the end).  More info to come, but you'll be glad to own one. Or more...

To read more about the Easter Markers and see additional photos, click here

Photo from Pragueexperience.com

If you go, send me your photos!  I wish I could be there so will live vicariously through you.

Good Friday...aka Superstitious Friday

Velký pátek (Good Friday) is upon us, and it is a solemn day.  A day of remembrance, mourning, and fasting.  It is also a day to bake bread to protect your home from fire, amongst other things.  

You see, on Velký pátek, Czech cooks prepare the traditional holiday bread, which under no circumstances can be cut or eaten until the priest says, "Christ is risen!" (Kristus vstal z mrtvých!) on Easter Sunday.  You best be shooing the children and spouses out of the kitchen before they bust into the bread and the house bursts into flames.

It's also a custom to mark a new loaf of bread with the sign of the cross before cutting it, in order to bless it and thank God for it.  Bread baked on Velký pátek, if left to harden in the oven, can be kept all year and its presence protects the house from fire.  I don't want my home to burn down, but I certainly don't want stale bread sitting around attracting critters.  Damn it, what is one to do?!

While I ponder stale bread vs home burning down, let's move on to even more Good Friday superstitions.  What, you thought the bread was it?

Hahhahahaha, silly you!

We have more, lots more!  And you best adhere to them... or you will die.  Better get a move on as it is Good Friday and the day is short:

- Women put quilts out to air out in order to chase illnesses out of the house. 

- People get up very early (damn, sorry I already screwed you on this one) and hurry down to the river (a stream, babbling brook, puddle in middle of the road will all do) where they wash themselves with cold water and then cross the brook or stream with bare legs because this ensures good health for the entire next year. 

- Take your daughter down to wash at the well.  Don't have a well?  Best find something that will do for your daughter's future lies in your hands.  You see, this ritual ensures that your daughter will be pretty and well spoken for. 

It is also believed that water sprites come out onto dry land on Good Friday... perhaps you'll spot one when you're washing down by the river.  Looks like this:

In my town, this is the local drunk.

Moving on...

Now for some small talk, "How's the weather where you are?"  No, seriously, how's the weather?  This is important because the weather for the whole year is foretold based on Good Friday's weather. For instance, if it rains on Good Friday then the rest of the year will be dry. Velký pátek deštivý dělává rok žíznivý ("A rainy Good Friday makes for a thirsty year.").  Based on this, it is safe to conclude that if it is dry today, the rest of the year it will rain.  Bummer for me.

We also have some legends associated with Good Friday (shocker).  I'll share two of them with you:

- Anyone can look upon the sun without being blinded by its glare.  Try it, let me know how it goes for you.

- High up in the mountains amidst the cliffs there is the stone figure of a maiden. She is seated and holds in her lap an unfinished shirt, also of stone. Each year, on Velký pátek, at the hour of the Passion, she sews a stitch: one year, one stitch. When the shirt is finished, the world will end. Everything under the sun will die, and Judgement Day will be at hand.

I told you we were a grim bunch.

BUT, that being said I will leave you on a good note. No one should work on Good Friday out of respect ... or from superstitious fears because it is said that if one works, it will bring misfortune.

Do what you will with that, but if you're at work, may I suggest busting out of there as fast as possible screaming about avoiding misfortune as you tear down the door on your way out.

Happy Good Friday!

PS.  Do not eat meat.  Or you will die.... 

"Tis the Season

As you know, us Czechs love our marionettes.  So for all of you in NYC, here's your chance to get in touch with your Czech or not-so-Czech side.  

'Tis the Season!

The Czechoslovak-American Marionette Theatre  is starting the season with A Christmas Carol, Oy! Hanukkah, Merry Kwanzaa 

DETAILS:

La MaMa Theatre (The Club) 

74A East Fourth Street  

December 4-14 Fridays through Saturdays at 10:00 PM, Saturdays @ 2pm & Sundays at 5:00 PM Box office (212) 475-7710, www.lamama.org

Independent Czechoslovak State Proclamation Day!

Today marks the most important national holiday of the year...

On October 28, 1918, Czechoslovakia was granted independence from the Austro-Hungarian Empire after World War I.  With Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk as its first president, Czechoslovakia arose as one of the succession states of Austria-Hungary at the end of WWI.

Wenceslas Square, October 28, 1918

The time between WWI and WWII, which was also a golden age for the culture, is now called "the First Republic".  It's a time when Czechoslovakia had a parliamentary democracy, concentrated 70% of the industry of the former Austro-Hungarian Empire, and had an economy that was the strongest in the world.  Prague was similar to Paris then, as exemplified by the great Czech-French art nouveau painter, Alphonse Mucha.

First Czechoslovak President Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk

Why must all good things come to an end??  

The First Republic era only lasted 20 years.  Czechoslovakia was betrayed by allies in 1938 in the Munich agreement, thus Nazi Germany legally occupied Sudetenland, the Czechoslovakian borders with Germany, and in 1939 the whole country was under protectorship of Hitler's Germany.

Map of Sudetenland 

After the second World War, the Nazi troops were replaced by Soviet troops, and the Czechs had to wait for the restoration of democracy until the end of 1989.  

We celebrate October 28th mainly to remember this happy era known as the First Republic.  The president's speech is televised and is followed by awarding medals to Czechs who have done great deeds.  Every year on this day, a few thousand of the Czech Republic's leading citizens are invited to the Independence Day ceremony at Prague Castle, where the great halls are open and delicious food and drink are served.

Independence Day Ceremony at the Spanish Hall...Prague Castle

So honor this special day with us... raise your glass to mark this day in 1918 when Czechoslovakia emerged from the shadows of the Austro-Hungarian Empire!

Miloš Zeman, President of the Czech Republic

Please help me feel Christmassy!

I'm longing for that Christmassy feeling and no place delivers better than Prague.  But, alas, I am not in Prague for the holiday season this year, thus I need to ask you, readers, for your help in making me feel festive and bringing a Prague Christmas to me in Hawaii. 

Today I envision strolling through Old Town Square with a hot cup of Svařák (mulled wine) in-hand.  Perhaps a cinnamon Trdelnik in my other hand.  Gloved hands, of course, for I picture it to be quite chilly, perhaps even lightly snowing.  

I don't like the cold weather by any stretch of the imagination, but during the Christmas season, it's what helps make me feel festive, especially when the scent of wood burning fills the air...or roasting meat!

The Christmas markets are now open throughout Prague and they are where I long to be...

During the day I like to browse the stands and pick up presents and stocking stuffers for family & friends

And at night, there's just something so spectacular about being in the square surrounded by twinkling lights and holiday music... gives me a sense of calm and happiness that I just can't put into words.

** All of the photos except for the very first one are from MyCzechRepublic since I am not there this year **  Visit the website for opening hours and a list of all of the x-mas markets in Prague

Kiss Me

Today is one of the most romantic days of the year!
On the first of May, lovers are supposed to kiss under a blossoming cherry tree to ensure a year of good health.  Also, a girl should be kissed under a cherry blossom so that she will stay beautiful year round.  You hear that boys??  Kiss your girl...believe me she wants you to!


Finding a cherry tree in Prague can be difficult, so kissing under any blossoming tree will do!  

(Psssst...I'll tell you a secret... there's one at Vysehrad)

Another tradition is to meet at the statue of Karel Hynek.  Why?  Well good ole Karel was a Czech romantic poet, and today he stands on Petřín Hill.

Couples who kiss in front of his statue believe that their love will be as strong as the stone that the statue is made from.   Mácha is best known for his lyrical epic poem, Máj, which is a poem about a tragic love between two young people.  A well-known verse is:

It was late evening, on the first of May,
The eve of May was the time of love.
The turtle-dove's voice called to love,
Where rich and sweet pinewoods lay.

Máj is regarded as a classic work of Czech Romanticism, and is considered one of the best Czech poems ever written.         

                

Happy Easter!

Happy Easter!! 

And a very special Easter hug goes out to my family ...I love you!

I have to tell you about the strangest, yet funniest, Easter tradition that we have! ...

The "pomlázka" is a traditional whip braided out of pussywillows (or other springtime branches) that men and boys of all ages plait on Easter Sunday (or they buy them at almost any shop around this time of the year). The pomlázka can be any length and braided from three to twelve branches.  The origin of the pomlázka tradition (pomlázka meaning both the whip and the tradition itself) dates back to pagan times.  Its original purpose and symbolic meaning is to chase away illness and bad spirits and bring health and youth for the rest of the year to everyone who is whipped.  In the past, pomlázka was not only used by boys to whip girls (um, I should clarify...they whip them on the legs...no dirty thoughts!!!), but also by the farmer's wife to whip the livestock, as well as everyone in the household, including men and children. 

Boys would whip girls lightly on the legs and possibly douse them with water, which had a similar symbolic meaning.  An Easter carol, usually asking for an egg or two, would be recited by the boy while whipping.  The girl would then reward the boy with a painted egg or candy and tie a ribbon around his pomlázka.  As the boys progressed through the village, their bags filled up with eggs and their pomlázkas were adorned with more and more colorful ribbons.

Although it may have lost its symbolism and romance and is now performed mainly for fun, this tradition is still largely upheld, especially in villages and small towns.  Some boys and men seem to have forgotten that the whipping is supposed to be only symbolic and girls don't always like that.  The reward has also changed - money and shots of plum brandy (Slivovice) are often given instead of, or in addition to, painted eggs and candy.  As you can imagine, by early afternoon groups of happy men can be seen staggering along the roads!  All that aside, Easter still remains one of the most joyful and fun holidays on the Czech calendar.

The Color Red

Red and other bright colors symbolize health, joy, happiness and new life that comes with the spring.  So paint those Easter eggs red!

All in all, Easter is a time of high spirits and happy celebrations in small villages.  I wish you all a joyful day and a very Happy Easter! 

Veselé Velikonoce!

Easter Traditions...Happy White Saturday!

Today is White Saturday (Bílá sobota), a day when boys walk through the village with rattles on until residents at each house give them money (hmmm, if only it were so easy!)

There's so much more to White Saturday though.  It is regarded, along with Zelený čtvrtek (Green Thursday), as a lucky day for sowing. The farmers place ashes on their fields to ensure a good crop, and shake the trees, so that they'll yield a lot of fruit.

White Saturday used to be a day of peace and quiet.  Daytime church services were not held at all, and services were held instead either in the evening hours after the sun went down, or after midnight.  Only blessed candles and lights were used in the church during these nighttime services.  Because of the Virgin Mary's faith in His promise to rise again from the dead, the day is consecrated to her.

Easter picture by Josef Lada

They say that if it rains on Bílá sobota, it will rain often during the coming year.  Well, it's sunny and warm where I am... yay!!!

If you're in the Czech Republic on Bílá sobota, take time to stand a while in front of the church in Domaľlice, Kyjov, Blatnice, Břeclav or Vlčnov and enjoy the ceremonial costumes of the women and girls.

Happy Valentine's Day!

Valentine's Day wasn't always celebrated in the Czech Republic.  Before 1989, Valentine's Day was non-existent in then Czechoslovakia.  Even a mere decade ago it wasn't as popular as it is today, but alas, times have changed, and now you see signs of Valentine's Day everywhere you go.  Some Czechs still see it as a commercial holiday, used to urge people to spend more money, but others have embraced its spirit.  It's hard not to finally accept Valentine's Day when businesses have been pushing it to boost their revenue, but don't think that makes the Czechs unromantic...

Czechs have their own version of Valentine's Day, and that day is May 1st...A Day for Lovers.  On the first of May, lovers are supposed to kiss under a blossoming cherry tree to ensure a year of good health and good luck.  Hmmm...I like the sound of this and think I'm going to bring A Day for Lovers to Brooklyn!  Imagine a kiss under all of those blossoming cherry trees at the Brooklyn Botantical Garden...or in DC when the blossoms are in full bloom.  I think we should all mark our calendars for May 1st, locate the nearest cherry Blossom, and kiss our beloved under a canopy of pink and white! 

Sorry, didn't mean to go off on a tangent, but it just sounds so romantic!  So, back to May 1st...there's another tradition associated with A Day for Lovers, and that is to meet at the statue of Karel Hynek Mácha.  Why?  Mácha was a Czech romantic poet, and today he stands on Petřín Hill.  Couples who kiss in front of his statue believe that their love will be as strong as the stone his statue is made from. 

Karel Hynek Mácha is best known for his lyrical epic poem, Máj (which is about May 1st and speaks of the tragic love of two young people).  Máj is "regarded as the classic work of Czech Romanticism, and is considered one of the best Czech poems ever written."  It's quite beautiful and you can read the translated version of it here

Svátek Tří králů - Three Kings Day

This past week I really hated seeing Christmas trees already stripped of decorations, removed from their homes, and just sitting curbside awaiting pick-up.  Seriously, the day after Christmas the streets were littered with discarded trees!  It makes me sad really that people are so eager to end the holiday, and even sadder yet that they didn't wait until the last day of the 12 Days of Christmas to take their tree down.  That last day being today.

The Twelfth Night of Christmas is always on the evening of January 5th, but the Twelfth Day can either precede or follow the Twelfth Night according to which Christian tradition is followed.  Twelfth Night is followed by the Feast of the Epiphany on January 6th. In some traditions, the first day of Epiphany (January 6) and the twelfth day of Christmas overlap.

In the Czech Republic, today is known as Svátek Tří králů, Three Kings Day.  The Three Kings, Caspar, Melchior and Balthazar, also known as wise men from the east, saw a bright star on the night that Christ was born. They followed it to Bethlehem and met the baby Jesus, to whom they gave three gifts:gold, myrrh and frankincense.  Based on Biblical stories, the three kings represented three life stages - history, presence, and future (young, middle-aged, and old king).  The oldest man also had a dark face that represented the shadow of death.

Did you ever see "K+M+B" written on a door or over a doorway?  Usually in chalk, sometimes followed by a year?  Well, if you have the three letters are the initials of the Three Kings and it shows that they've been to visit, but the inscription also stands for Christus mansionem benedicat (Christ bless this house), and is intended to wish health and luck on the occupants for the coming year, which is why the chalk is left up even when Three Kings Day is over.

Today, tradition has evolved to one of collecting for charity.  You may come upon youngsters dressed as K+M+B and if you do, spare them some change, it's for a good cause and keeps an old local tradition alive.

Czech Public Holiday Today - Struggle for Freedom and Democracy Day

Today is a public holiday in the Czech Republic - Den boje za svobodu a demokracii (Struggle for Freedom and Democracy Day) commemorating the student demonstration against Nazi occupation in 1939, and the demonstration in 1989 that started the Velvet Revolution.

On November 17, 1989, a Friday, riot police suppressed a peaceful student demonstration in Prague.  That event sparked a series of popular demonstrations from November 19th through late December.  By November 20th, the number of peaceful protesters assembled in Prague had risen from 200,000 the previous day to an estimated 500,000.  

Twenty-two years ago today, it started off as a peaceful officially-sanctioned march in Prague to commemorate Czech student Jan Opletal, who died at the hands of the country's Nazi occupiers in 1939.  Students, however, soon started to chant slogans against the communist regime.

Jan Opletal (Jan. 1, 1915 - Nov. 11, 1939)

Home of Jan Opletal

It is said that about 15,000 students had joined the demonstration.  They walked to the grave of Jan Opletal and - after the official end - continued from the Czech National Cemetery at Vyšehrad to Wenceslas Square calling for democratic reforms.  However, they never made it there.  At about 7:30 pm, when they were halfway through their march at Národní Street, the students were stopped by a cordon of police.  The students offered flowers to the police while singing songs and shouting "we have bare hands", but the police suddenly began to beat the young demonstrators with night sticks.  

Prior to this, the police managed to block all escape routes.  Nearly 200 people were injured.  One student was reportedly beaten to death.  Although this was later proved false, it served well for mass student support amongst the general public.

There is a memorial dedicated to November 17th at Wenceslas Square, and each year people place flowers and candles there to remember this day's events.  The President of the Czech Republic always places flowers atop the memorial, as well.  

Memorial to Jan Opletal

Along Národní třída, inside the arcade near No. 16, is a bronze plaque with a cluster of hands forming the peace sign and the date "17.11.1989" in memory of students clubbed in the street by police on that date.

Student Memorial on Národní třída